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Regular savings accounts for fun and profit

Regular savings accounts for fun and profit post image

New contributor Frugalist is back to explain how he gamifies chasing the best regular saving accounts to make his cash work harder.

There’s something deeply satisfying to me about maximising my return on cash.

Not as an alternative to investing, of course. I’ve got bigger ambitions than simply fighting a slugging match against inflation with respect to my long-term goals.

But when you’re anticipating the risk of your boiler exploding in December, you’re wondering why your car’s clutch smells funny, or you’ve built up a giant stoozing hoard, cash savings accounts fit the bill.

Many people treat cash as afterthought. Whether through prudence or – let’s face it – laziness, they’ll put up with a less-than-1% interest rate from their bank.

But I won’t! Instead I’ve developed a hobby of finding the savings accounts with the juiciest rates.

If I’ve got cash I’ll always try to squeeze every drop of interest out of it.

I love big rates (and I cannot lie)

What gets me really giddy and excited are regular savings accounts.

The principle feature (/downside) of regular savers is that they invariably cap how much money you can put in each month.

Sometimes you can freely withdraw money whenever you like. More often your money is locked up for a time. They may pay a set rate of interest for a year before maturing, or the rate may be variable (which tends to mean downwards in the current climate…)

Either way the key is they usually won’t let you add money indefinitely. Instead you’ll earn interest for a year and then they’ll mature and you’re back to square one.

What’s the upside? Well in return for these limitations you can score some pretty attractive interest rates.

How about Virgin smashing the leaderboards with a 10% account in 2024? Or Saffron Building Society grabbing headlines with a 9% rate?

Kerpow!

When you clickthrough to read about these great rates though, you’ll typically find authors and readers in the comments alike saying the rates are too good to be true. 

Geoff from Shrewsbury might claim: “I get more interest putting £40,000 in a normal easy access account.”

Mildred from Ramsbottom adds: “Erm, actually you’ll only get half the advertised rate.”

It’s almost impressive how much vitriol can be generated by something as seemingly uncontroversial as a regular savings account.

Regular savings accounts needn’t be confusing

I’m here to tell you that these accounts are far simpler than people suggest – and that you can do better than Mildred moans.

Hopefully I’ll provoke less fury in the Monevator comments for my troubles, too!

Let’s consider that Virgin account (though it’s no longer on the market as I write).

Virgin paid 10% (10.38% AER) on a maximum deposit of £250 per month for 12 months.

  • By the sixth month, Mildred could have loaded it with £1,500 of contributions
  • But the balance would only reach its maximum £3,000 in the final month
  • So Mildred would get interest on the full £3,000 balance only in the twelfth month

To calculate what she’d earn over a year, a rough rule of thumb is to take the average balance (£1,500) and multiply that by the AER (10.38%), giving £155.70.

Getting a more precise number is a nightmare. It depends on the number of days elapsed when cash qualifies as interest-bearing in your account. Weekends and Bank Holidays aren’t just for frolicking – they are also for playing havoc with financial predictions and computer systems.

Anyway, if by comparison you put £250 into a 5% easy access savings account each month, then you would receive £82.50 in interest in a year.

That’s roughly half what you earned from Virgin’s 10% offering – just as you’d expect from a 5% account.

Limits are frustrating

Of course there are legions of people out there with tens or even hundreds of thousands in cash savings. Such people may remember – wistfully and rather selectively – heady 7% easy access savings interest rates being paid long ago by the likes of Icesave and Kaupthing. (Ah, great days!)

So when a flashy headline nowadays touts, say, a 9% interest rate, it’s excellent clickbait to attract these frustrated savers.

And it’s not surprising if on reading the restrictions in the T&Cs, some of these people then complain that regular savings accounts are pointless as you can only save £250 per month.

However just because you have £20,000 in total savings doesn’t mean you need to put the entire lot into one bank account.

Your savings pot is not monolithic

Separating your cash into pots instead and then maximising the interest rate on each can make a big difference to your total return, as I’ll demonstrate.

Do check those terms and conditions though. As I mentioned some regular savings accounts insist on no withdrawals until the term is up.

If you’re relying on a pot of cash for emergencies, you’ll need easy access. So check the clauses carefully.

The numbers feel unfair

If Mildred worked hard to put £3,000 in her 10.38% savings account, then she might have thought she could earmark a £311 interest payment for a new TV.

When she instead received roughly £150 over a year – and she doesn’t understand why – you can see how she’d feel diddled.

Now she repeats that same mantra for a decade: “They only pay half the rate”.

My issue is not that these people have these feelings – even if they are misinformed – but how their complaints get amplified and repeated, tarring regular savings accounts unfairly.

Institutions are partly to blame too for touting the juicy headline rate rather than the actual interest payments someone can expect for a year.

How I look at the maths 

To be clear, ‘half the rate’ is actually no different mathematically to my ‘half the balance’ rule of thumb from earlier.

  • £3,000 multiplied by half of 10.38% is £155.70. 

If you didn’t fall asleep in your maths lessons, you will know that the order in which you multiply and divide numbers makes no difference to the result.

But psychologically, it’s totally misleading. The bank is not paying half the amount of interest owed. They are paying the full amount of interest on the average balance.

Not appreciating this can needlessly discourage people from opening such accounts, and hence from earning the most interest they could.

Making the best of regular savings accounts

Most of us function on regular income. We get paid monthly. We pay our bills monthly. 

So if an account lets us save each month, that actually aligns with our finances. 

If you can save a fresh £250 from your paycheque per month, then when you open a 10% regular saver you are maximising its benefits.

Whereas if you whinged about it ‘not really being 10%’ and instead stuck that £250 each month into a 5% easy access account, you would be missing out on double the interest.

But what if you’re in the camp of having a starting pot of cash? Say £3,000.

You don’t need to keep it under your mattress doing nothing as you slowly load it into your regular savings account. Instead:

  • Put £3,000 in a 5% easy access account
  • Each month, move £250 into the 10% regular savings account
  • Earn 5% on £1,500 (£75)
  • Earn 10% on £1,500 (£150) as well
  • After a year withdraw your £225 in £5 notes and throw them into the air like Scrooge McDuck 

That’s far better than the £150 you’d get using just one of the accounts. It’s an effective interest rate of 7.5%.

Testing this out with an example

Assume you amassed £10,000 to stash over the course of the past year. Let’s see what you might have earned in doing so.

I’ll use some recent examples of regular savers rather than only limiting myself to ones available right now.

That’s because the examples quickly get out-of-date anyway, and with regular savers it’s important to jump on opportunities when they arise. Products are withdrawn quickly if they prove too popular.  

Consider for example the Monmouthshire Building Society. In August it launched two accounts allowing members to earn 7% on a whacking £1,500 per month! But it didn’t wait even a month before closing such accounts to new customers.

In the following table of recently available regular savings accounts, those in bold could still be opened as of October 2025:

ProviderRate (AER)Monthly MaxAverage BalanceApprox Interest
Virgin10.38%£250£1,500£156
Zopa7.10%£300£1,800£128
Co-Op7.00%£300£1,800£126
Nationwide BS6.50%£200£1,200£78
Progressive BS7.50%£300£1,800£135
RBS / Natwest5.50%£150£900£50
Principality (6 Month)7.50%£200£600£45
Saffron BS8.00%£50£300£24
Total
£1,750£9,900£741

Utilising all of these products to save money each month would have seen you earn £741 in total interest after 12 months.

In contrast, putting £9,900 into a standard savings account at 4.5% would have generated just £446.

Hence someone using the regular savings accounts would have generated £295 additional income (pre-tax), compared to simply taking out the best easy access account and leaving it there.

This is a little pessimistic though, as many of these regular savers are either fixed or are held at high rates despite base rate reductions. And that can’t be said for the market-leading easy access accounts.

Also I’ve not cherry-picked the best rates here. Swap those harder-to-get Monmouthshire accounts in for the RBS and Nationwide options, and your returns would be even higher.

Many happy returns

It’s easy to nitpick the scenario I’ve laid out. In practice it isn’t quite so simple. 

You might be thinking, for instance, that a chunk of that £10,000 would have to wait for several months on the sidelines before it could be moved into a regular saving account. I’ll get to that in a minute!

As far as the maths is concerned though, it’s correct insofar as I’m assuming an average balance of £10,000 earning c. 7%. And from a ROCE1 perspective that’s around £700.

In my opinion this is where many articles get a bit stuck in the weeds. They focus on individual accounts and drip-feeding money across. It all sounds a faff.

However as I see it, if you’re looking at cash management as part of your wider portfolio, it’s more about how much you earn from maximising your return on your cash over many years. It’s a process, not a one-time thing.

In practical terms, you’ll look to open up these accounts as they are launched and when their rates pique your interest. As spare cash becomes available you’ll simply deploy it into the highest-paying accounts at your disposal, subject to their contribution limits.

If you’ve got, say, ten of these accounts then money will be cycling in and out of them periodically – such that you aren’t actually performing a mechanical drip-feed from an easy access to a regular saver.

You’re simply deploying cash (from whatever source) as it becomes available into your best-paying regular savers and recycling money as your accounts mature.

In this way cash from maturing accounts will only sit in easy access accounts for short periods of time, before being shuffled off into the next regular saver.

Still all this does raise another pushback…

Are regular savings accounts worth the effort?

Perhaps you think that £295 is not worth the hassle of maintaining all of these accounts.

You may also earn enough interest to pay tax on savings interest. That takes a further bite out of the possible gains.

Moreover with some building societies you must be an existing member to qualify for the best accounts. Even I wouldn’t recommend you speculatively join Saffron BS in the hopes of receiving £24 interest in some future year.

That said, joining the Monmouthshire BS a couple of years back definitely paid off for me now that I’ll be earning £630 from its exclusive 7% accounts.

And strategically choosing to start doing business with one or two key building societies might be worth the (digital) paperwork.

Nationwide is growing its user base consistently, so I’ll use its regular saver as an example of one that might be opened by Monevator readers.

With it paying 6.5% interest on £200 per month, we can quickly compare Nationwide’s regular saving to a 4.5% easy access alternative on an after-tax basis:

Tax Rate4.5% Savings6.5% SavingsDifference
0%£54£78£24
20%£43£62£19
40%£32£47£14
45%£30£43£13

Don’t forget, if you’re a 20% taxpayer earning less than £1,000 in interest per year or a 40% taxpayer earning less than £500 in interest per year, you would also sit in the first row. 

By opening the regular savings account, you’ll benefit by roughly £24.

If the only requirement is a couple of minutes of tapping away on an Nationwide app you already have installed, that’s a pretty good return on your time IMHO.

But the big win comes when you have a portfolio of such accounts. This enables you to maximise the benefits of all and spread the maturities through the year.

You’ll also likely end up with a monster of a spreadsheet that you can show off to your friends and family.

Does it spark joy?

Everyone is different, so I can’t argue that regular savings accounts are for you.

Clearly if you’re a new saver with a few thousand pounds who has just started rolling your snowball, then these tactics are going to be more consequential than for grizzled Monevator veterans sitting on six- or seven-figure investment portfolios.

Even so, some people take real satisfaction out of extracting the most benefit from our cash for its own sake. I’ll let you guess whether that includes me. (Clue: I spend my free time writing about savings for Monevator!)

But I won’t stretch to the more extreme tactics employed by some, such as:

  • Timing their payments based on which specific days qualify for interest at the receiving bank
  • Opening fixed-rate regular savers speculatively in case rate drops make them more useful in future
  • Finding loopholes to cram extra cash into their accounts

I think the law of diminishing returns kicks in here, given the limits of how much cash you can practically put away through even a portfolio of regular savings accounts.

But in more everyday ways, if you’re going to hold some cash then why not shoot for getting the best rate you can? 

You’ll need to keep an eye on services that track rates. (Try MoneyFacts.) You’ll also need to get in before the masses of regular saver aficionados overwhelm new offerings and applications are closed, especially with the smaller buildings societies.

Happy stashing! Just please promise me that you’ll never say regular savers only pay half the advertised interest.

  1. Return on Capital Employed. []
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Asset allocation strategy – what we can learn from rules of thumb

An image of a crown and a thumbs up cartoon with the caption “the rule of thumb”

If you’re wondering whether your asset allocation is right for you, then running it through our favourite investing rules of thumb is a great way to test your thinking.

Too often asset allocation is reduced to a single variable – age – whereas in reality a portfolio that lets you sleep at night also depends on:

  • How much risk you can take
  • How close you are to achieving your objective
  • When you actually need the money
  • Your individual response to market turmoil

Each of the heuristics below helps you reexamine your asset allocation along one of those dimensions. All are more directly relevant than your age alone.

After all, there are 70-somethings capable of weathering a stock market storm like Easter Island statues.1

Before we start – Each rule of thumb offers a maximum equity allocation. The remaining percentage of your portfolio is divided among your defensive holdings. Choose wisely and you should be appropriately diversified in other asset classes whenever stocks take a dive, as they inevitably do.

Okay, let’s have at it.

What’s your timeline?

How long do you think you’ll invest for? The closer you are to needing the cash the less Larry Swedroe thinks you should hold in stocks:

Investment horizon (years) Max equity allocation
0-3 0%
4 10%
5 20%
6 30%
7 40%
8 50%
9 60%
10 70%
11-14 80%
15-19 90%
20+ 100%

This heuristic highlights how we’re better able to bear the risk of holding equities when we’ve got more time to recover from a stock market setback.

Or – to look at it from the other end of the telescope – it’s sensible to switch to wealth preservation rather than growth when time is short.

A retiree might adopt a minimum stock floor if they intend to remain invested for the rest of their life. Whereas it makes sense to be entirely in cash in the last few years if you’re investing to buy something specific, such as a house, annuity, or child’s education.

Tim Hale provides a simpler version of this rule in his UK-focused DIY investment book Smarter Investing:

Own 4% in equities for each year you will be investing. The rest of your portfolio will be in bonds.

What’s your target number?

This rule is great for budding FIRE-ees and anyone else charging towards a defined financial target. Jim Dahle shows how you might sync your equities with the amount of your goal achieved:

Percentage achieved Max equity allocation
0-10% 100%
11-30% 80%
31-60% 70%
61-90% 60%
91-110% 50%
111-150% 40%
151%+ 20%

Once you’ve gained some experience, you can easily adjust these numbers to suit your individual risk tolerance. I also like the way Dahle’s guideline nudges an investor to:

  • Take more risk off the table if you over-achieve. (That is, to stop playing when you win the game)
  • Increase your stock allocation if a crash knocks you back

Most people will probably feel burned in that latter scenario, and may struggle to buy more beaten-up shares. However there’s a strong chance that stock market valuations will be indicating it’s a good time to load up on cheap equities.

How big a loss can you take?

So far we’ve looked at asset allocation strategy from the perspective of our need to take risk. This next rule considers how much risk you can handle.

Swedroe invites us to think about how much loss we can live with before reaching for the cyanide pills:

Max loss you’ll tolerate Max equity allocation
5% 20%
10% 30%
15% 40%
20% 50%
25% 60%
30% 70%
35% 80%
40% 90%
50% 100%

I’m always amazed by how many people believe that their investments should never go down. It’s a valuable exercise to be confronted with the idea that you are likely to be faced with a 30%-plus market bloodbath on more than one occasion over your investment lifetime.

Personally I found it next to impossible to imagine what a 50% loss would feel like – even when I turned the percentages into solid numbers based on my assets.

At the outset of my journey, my assets were piffling. So a massive haemorrhage didn’t seem all that.

Experience is a good teacher though, and it’s worth reapplying this rule when your assets add up to a more sizeable wad. You may feel differently about loss when five- or six-figure sums are smoked instead of merely four.

The Oblivious Investor, Mike Piper, uses a slightly more conservative version of this rule:

Spend some time thinking about your maximum tolerable loss, then limit your stock allocation to twice that amount — with the line of thinking being that stocks can (and sometimes do) lose roughly half their value over a relatively short period.

Just remember that stock market losses can exceed 50%. It doesn’t happen often but it does happen.

Read about the worst collapses to hit UK, Japanese, German, and French investors if you really want to scare educate yourself.

How do you respond in a crisis?

It’s hard to know how painful a serious market crunch can feel until you’ve been run over by one yourself. It’s never fun, but at least you can put the ordeal to good use afterwards.

William Bernstein formulated the following table to guide asset allocation adjustments after your portfolio has dropped 20% or more, based on what you did while it was busy slumping:

Reaction during crisis  Equity allocation adjustment
Bought more stocks +20%
Rebalanced into stocks +10%
Did nothing but didn’t lose sleep 0%
Panicked and sold some stocks -10%
Panicked and sold all stocks -20%

Bernstein believes actions speak louder than words. If you didn’t sell up but you also didn’t feel comfortable buying into a falling market then your asset allocation is probably about right. 

If the setback made you feel miserable or panicked, adjust your stock allocation downwards. It’s probably too risky for you at current levels.

Reapply this test throughout your life. Your risk tolerance may well change over time – especially with greater assets. 

If you’re worried the market is too expensive 

Another technique advocated by William Bernstein is overbalancing. He recommends it as a method of gradually reducing your exposure to a market that may be overvalued.

Here’s Bernstein’s explanation:2

If the stock market goes up X%, you want to decrease your asset allocation by Y%.

What’s the ratio between X and Y?

If the market goes up 50%, maybe I want to reduce my stock allocation by 4%. So there’s a 12.5 ratio between those two numbers.

Well, that’s what it really all boils down to: What’s your ratio between those two numbers?

Bernstein is indifferent as to whether your allocation changes by 2%, 4% or 5% in response to the big market shift.

Like most heuristics this one is based on intuition-driven experience. It’s not a scientific formula, hence you can adjust it to suit yourself or ignore it entirely.

Keep in mind that usefully predicting market valuations is extremely difficult.

The Harry Markowitz ‘50-50’ rule of thumb

If all that sounds a bit complicated then consider the oft-quoted approach of the Nobel-prize winning father of Modern Portfolio Theory.

When quizzed about his personal asset allocation strategy, Markowitz said:

I should have computed the historical covariance and drawn an efficient frontier. Instead I visualized my grief if the stock market went way up and I wasn’t in it – or if it went way down and I was completely in it. My intention was to minimize my future regret, so I split my [retirement pot] 50/50 between bonds and equities.

The ‘100 minus your age’ rule of thumb

This rule of thumb is so old it belongs in a rest home. But it’s still got legs because it’s very simple:

Subtract your age from 100. The answer is the portion of your portfolio that resides in equities.

For example, a 40-year-old would have 60% of their portfolio in equities and 40% in bonds. Next year they would have 59% in equities and 41% in bonds.

A popular spin-off of this rule is:

Subtract your age from 110 or even 120 to calculate your equity holding.

The more aggressive versions of the rule account for the fact that as lifespans increase we will need our portfolios to stick around longer, too. That often means a stronger dose of equities is required.

Following this rule of thumb enables you to defuse your reliance on risky assets as retirement age approaches.

As time ticks away, you are less likely to be able to recover from a big stock market crash that wipes out a large chunk of your portfolio. Re-tuning your asset allocation strategy away from equities and into bonds is a simple and practicable response.

The Accumulator’s ‘rule of thumb’ rule of thumb

Here’s my contribution:

Rules of thumb should not be confused with rules.

I have to say this, of course, lest the pedant cops shoot me down in flames, but it’s true that rules of thumb are not fire-and-forget missiles of truth.

They are exceedingly generalised applications of principle that can help us better understand the personal decisions we face.

(Hopefully Monevator’s long grapple with the 4% rule has seared that into our brains!)

The foundations of a proper financial plan are a realistic understanding of your financial goals, your time horizon, the contributions you can make, the likely growth rates of the asset classes at your disposal, and your ability to withstand the pain it will take to get there. (Amongst other things…)

But rules of thumb can help us get moving and, as long as they’re tailored to suit, can start to tackle questions to which there are no real answers such as: “What is my optimal asset allocation strategy if I wish to be sitting on a boatload of retirement wonga 20 years from now?”

Take it steady,

The Accumulator

  1. Most likely because they don’t need the money. []
  2. The original interview now seems to have gone walkies from ETF.com []
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Our Weekend Reading logo

What caught my eye this week.

Unlike some vocal Monevator readers, I’m nearly all-in on the cashless society.

I even have a long-running email thread with a few sceptical and long-suffering friends, where I goad them with statistics about cashless shops and restaurants, and stories about homeless people taking donations via their own QR codes.

They post counterpoints, of course. Usually something about how Great Aunt Beryl can’t use a smartphone. Or how making all payments digital will only enable the surveillance state.

That’s fair. There surely are still too many Aunt Beryls around for us to go fully cashless. And though there’s nothing much I can do about it, our privacy protections are too feeble for me to be completely comfortable with the paperless spending trails our taps and swipes leave behind us. Even if “you only need to worry if you’re doing something wrong” as the complacent always say.

Okay, but what if my wrong is my own (romantic) affair or – more sympathetically – an escape fund that I’m amassing to get away from an abusive and controlling partner, rather than a matter of public safety?

I believe there are ways around these concerns, both technological and legislative. Whether we’ll see them is another matter.

But in any event I’m not sure what we can do about Amazon going down.

Unable to connect

Yes, the vulnerability that hogged the limelight this week when the hyper-scaler’s AWS cloud service went offline was a dry run of another of my pals’ concerns.

Their Doomsday version includes EMP weapons in space that knock out the payments rails, alongside anything else with an electronic pulse. For my part I contend we’d have other problems in such a scenario that a wallet with a few tenners wouldn’t solve. Not least the tills not working!

But putting that debate to one side, according to Which:

A service outage at Amazon Web Services (AWS) […] caused widespread disruption, taking down millions of major apps and websites – including HMRC, Snapchat and Duolingo.

As the world’s largest cloud computing provider, AWS underpins many online platforms through its storage and database services.

The issue has also affected some of the UK’s biggest banks under the Lloyds Banking Group umbrella, leaving many customers unable to access mobile or online banking.

You can add Royal Bank of Scotland to the list too, according to This Is Money.

Customers of the affected banks were unable to access their apps – although I presume physical credit cards continued to work.

But then I no longer even take a credit card out of the house except on special occasions, let alone cash.

Well over 95% of my spending is done via my Apple Watch. That includes just getting around the Tube (which still feels like magic).

But I admit this week’s outage gave my cashless evangelism pause.

Restore from backup

The immediate fix is to have more than one bank account – with the second bank being one that works with a different cloud provider.

From This Is Money:

The main way to protect yourself if your bank goes down in an outage is to have a second bank account with access to online banking.

Though Lloyds and the banks across its brand were down, other banks for example First Direct, Monzo, Starling and Chase were not affected.

You don’t need to keep a huge balance in it but it should have enough to cover you if you need to go to the shop and for essentials.

This is good advice, similar to why I suggest spreading your assets between different platforms in case of failure, even if you expect to ultimately be made whole again through regulatory protections.

That’s because there’s a hassle factor if all your investments are inaccessible in the meantime. Hence redundancy protects you from more than just loss.

Same with spending money, if all your money is only accessible via one bank for a time.

Registry not found

The snag: who knows which bank uses what cloud service?

Perhaps there should be a public cloud register, in the same way that we can consult a Bank of England registry to show which banks belong to the same group for FSCS purposes?

You could then pick one bank that works with Amazon, and another than runs off Google or Microsoft. (At least until they switch…)

I can’t find anything like that in existence. Just lots of stories about cloud providers winning bank business, as well as this ominous piece from a cloud trade publication from 2022:

Prudential Regulation Authority concerned over banks’ reliance on cloud

The Prudential Regulation Authority (PRA), responsible for regulating UK banks, credit unions, and insurers, plans to increase its scrutiny of major cloud computing providers.

Concerns stem from the growing reliance the banking sector has on the Big Three to maintain its systems and the threat an outage or hack could pose.

As a result, the PRA is looking into ways to access more data from Amazon, Microsoft, and Google, particularly in relation to the operation resilience of their services, the Financial Times reports.

In recent years, Amazon Web Services has struck deals with Barclays and HSBC. Meanwhile, Microsoft Azure and Google Cloud have both managed to partner with Lloyds Banking Group.

Whilst UK banks’ use of cloud computing is covered by the PRA, there are growing worries over the scale of disruption that multiple services failing in unison could cause.

Time to address those worries, I’d say. At the least with a public registry.

Of course there’s nothing in the laws of physics that says all the cloud providers can’t go down at the same time. So having two bank accounts isn’t failsafe.

Ironically, given my stance, I’ve always kept some cash hidden at home. Though that is more in case the credit card payment rails fell over for a bit – and also because some tradespeople will always prefer cash.

Sleep mode

These episodes mostly show us how reliant we are on the cloud as a society, given such services are dominated by just three companies – and hence how protections and failsafes must be a national affair as much as a personal one.

I mean, some people couldn’t even get to sleep due to the Amazon outage.

According to the Guardian:

Customers of Eight Sleep – a smart bed company that connects to the internet to control the temperature and incline of a person’s bed – found they were unable to adjust the bed or the temperature of the bed during the outage because they were unable to connect to the bed in their phone app.

That takes the old adage about having backups so you can sleep at night to another level!

Have a great weekend.

[continue reading…]

{ 19 comments }

The tax-free Lump Sum Allowance conundrum

Image of a man in a suit with ‘tax’ written over his head

In his debut article for Monevator, new contributor The Engineer ponders the imponderable: should he take his tax-free lump sum from his pension before the chancellor potentially takes the perk off him?

Hold onto your hats: it’s Budget season once more! Where will the tax axe will fall this time: rental income, pension tax relief, property, capital gains, or inheritance?

Pick your poison punters.

The contender that has generated the most column inches is the potential curbing or demise of the 25% tax-free pension lump sum – the beloved pot at the end of the long slog of a working life rainbow that is all yours to keep, unmolested by HMRC.

Generally, the advice from the experts is it’s foolish to second guess the chancellor and take drastic steps with your personal finances based on rumours. More specifically, it’s that you shouldn’t take your tax-free cash unless you already have a plan to spend it on something sensible like paying off the mortgage or giving it to your kids.

But ever more people are ignoring that advice. They are grabbing the tax-free cash while they can.

As This Is Money reports:

Mounting fears of further changes to pension rules in the upcoming Autumn Budget are pushing more savers to withdraw from their retirement pots, figures show.

The investment platform Bestinvest said it saw a 33% rise in withdrawal requests from customers with self-invested personal pensions or SIPPs in September […]

Bestinvest said the recent withdrawals were largely made up of those aged over 55 accessing their 25% tax-free cash lump sum, amid concerns that Chancellor Rachel Reeves may slash the tax-free withdrawal allowance.

I too am weighing up the pros and cons.

The media debate is mostly an emotional one. “The government’s going to rob me!” versus “Pensions are great! They’re tax-free!”

However I’m not sure either of those claims is true.

Monevator readers will demand a more sober analysis. Here is my attempt.

Wealth warning and disclaimer Everyone’s tax situation is famously individual, and your pension is a super-valuable and usually irreplaceable asset. This article is not personal financial advice – it’s just one man’s musings about his own situation. Seek professional advice as needed.

A sober analysis of the Lump Sum Allowance

The question under the microscope: in what circumstances would it make sense to take your tax-free lump sum out of your defined contribution (DC) pension and then invest it outside of the pension?

The crux? That future growth on my lump sum could be taxed outside of the pension – ISAs notwithstanding – but would compound tax-free while it’s still inside.

Then again, any growth inside a pension might still get taxed on withdrawal.

Hence we need to compare:

  • income tax on pension withdrawals at some unknown point many years in the future

against…

  • the compound effect of some combination of interest, dividend, and capital gains tax on my lump sum when it’s invested outside of my pension.

The sheer number of factors at play is mind-boggling. Any attempt at a general analysis is doomed to die in a morass of imponderables.

But maybe we can look at it one factor at a time? Then we can at least establish some guidelines that might help us reach a decision.

For a start, we’ll assume that all pension and tax rules remain unchanged for the duration. (Although we will come back to this.)

Effective tax rate INSIDE the pension

Let’s assume your pension has already reached the old Lifetime Allowance (£1,073,100) and therefore the maximum possible tax-free lump sum (£268,275), now known as the Lump Sum Allowance (LSA).

In this case all future growth inside the pension will be taxed on the way out. If you expect to be a basic-rate taxpayer at the point of withdrawal, say, then this will mean tax at 20%.

Remember this is the effective tax rate on the future growth in the pension. Not necessarily on the whole pension.

I’m assuming here that you don’t have any protected allowances.

Your going rate

It’s unlikely that your marginal tax rate will be lower than 20% later in retirement. The state pension is already using up pretty much all of the personal allowance, pushing most people into the basic-rate band on any additional income.

But it’s possible you expect to be a higher-rate or even additional-rate taxpayer in retirement.

Maybe you have a huge DC pension with protected allowances? Or a defined benefit pension (DB) as well as the DC pension. Or you’ll inherit a trust fund from great uncle Bertie.

In those cases the effective tax rate on growth inside your pension is going to be a lot higher.

Below the LSA

If you have yet to reach the LSA, then 25% of future growth will be tax-free (until you do hit the maximum).

For our analysis, we can think of this as two separate pots:

  • The 25% tax-free part on which future growth will be tax-free when withdrawn (at least while you’re still under the LSA)
  • The remaining 75% on which future growth will be taxed at your nominal tax rate on withdrawal

This approach reflects the fact that if you were to take out the tax-free lump sum, then the remaining 75% would be taken into drawdown and all subsequent withdrawals taxed at your nominal rate.

So, whilst the rate of tax on the growth of the pension as a whole would be 15% for a basic rate taxpayer (that is, 75% of 20%), the tax on the growth of the 25% lump sum can be considered as 0%.

And an effective tax rate of 0% is hard to beat!

Effective tax rate OUTSIDE the pension

The effective tax rate on growth of a lump sum held outside of a pension is even harder to tie down.

If you have spare ISA allowance, then the effective tax rate on the growth of whatever you manage to squirrel away into it would be zero.

Similarly, it would be zero if you have enough spare tax allowance to accommodate all the future growth, in whatever form.

As for tax rates:

  • If you keep the lump sum in cash, money markets, or bond funds, then you’ll pay your marginal rate of tax: 20%, 40%, or 45%.
  • Take your returns in dividends and it’s taxed at 8.75%, 33.75% or 39.35%.
  • As capital gains it’s 18% or 24%.
  • If you invest the lump sum in low-coupon gilts (directly held, not in a fund), then your effective tax rate would be very low, perhaps 1% or 2%.

Most probably your effective tax rate outside of a pension will be a combination of more than one of these, depending on your asset mix. In this case the rate will land somewhere in the middle.

Or perhaps it’ll be something very different if you’re prepared to take on truly esoteric tax planning.

What could be – ahem – simpler?

Comparing the tax rates

Obviously, if withdrawing the tax-free lump sum is going to work then I need to keep the effective tax rate on growth outside of the pension below the effective rate inside.

If you’re below the LSA, then you can’t beat the 0% effective tax inside a pension. The best you could do is match it with spare ISA and tax allowances.

If you’re above the LSA then some further thinking is needed.

The graph below shows the value of £1,000 lump sum invested outside a pension for 20 years (Y-axis), with a 7% growth rate, assuming varying effective tax rates on that growth (X-axis):

Here we’re comparing that lump sum growth (cyan line) against the same £1,000 tax-free lump sum held inside the pension and subject to a 20% tax on the growth when its withdrawn (pink line).

Again, note this is the tax rate on the growth only. The original sum is still tax-free whenever you decide to take it out. And we’re only thinking about the tax-free part of the current pension here.

So… eureka! With a lower tax rate the lump sum withdrawn will be worth more later!

“No shit, Sherlock“, I hear you cry.

Ah but it’s not quite that simple. You’ll see the lines in our graph don’t cross at 20%. Even if we have the same effective tax rate both inside and outside the pension, the lump sum outside the pension still loses.

Taxing matters

This is because there is a cost to paying tax as you go along, versus paying just once at the end. (It’s for the same reason that annual fees are so insidious.)

More graphs required, clearly.

Below the difference for the same £1,000 tax-free lump sum is illustrated for varying investment durations – that is, how long the money is invested for before being needed – and again assuming 7% growth and an effective tax rate of 20% both inside and outside the pension:

And now for a varying growth rate assuming a 20-year investment duration:

This shows that the damage done to your lump sum outside the pension grows with time and growth rate. It arguably suggests that high-growth long-duration investments are best left inside the pension.

But wait! That high growth and long duration might mean you end up paying a higher tax rate on withdrawal from the pension.

So perhaps it’s better to get it out early?

Also, I’ve assumed capital gains tax is paid each year. Whereas in fact it could be left to accumulate and be paid at the end of the period. Although that too might not be a good idea.

Enough! I have fallen into that morass of imponderables. Let’s just say that you’re going to need to see some clear daylight between the effective tax rates to make withdrawing fly.

Asset allocation

Some of this discussion on tax rates has implications for asset allocation.

If you have spare ISA or tax allowances, then the world is your oyster. Fill your boots with any asset class you fancy.

If, however, you’re trying to minimise your tax rate by allocating to higher dividend-paying assets or direct holdings in low coupon gilts, then you’re making decisions on asset allocation.

And it’s almost certainly not wise to change your asset allocation solely to get that clear daylight between effective tax rates.

If you were already planning to include higher dividend assets or gilts in your portfolio then great. Move that part outside of the pension.

Otherwise, best to knock the whole thing on the head. 

Inheritance

The tax-free inheritance of pensions will be gone by 2027.

This swings the pendulum a long way towards taking the lump sum sooner. Indeed it’s what has driven much of the increase in debate on this subject.

If you die before 75 then your heirs would currently inherit your pension tax-free. Any tax you’ve paid on a lump sum outside of the pension would have been wasted.

But I wouldn’t be surprised if this perk too is axed at some point. And in any case, you’ll be dead!

If you die after 75 then your heirs would pay tax on their inherited pension. In this case, if it made sense to take the lump sum when you were alive, then it will still make sense when you’re dead.

So not much to sway us either way here.

Known unknowns

Some things could change in future that would make me regret taking my lump sum early.

Such as:

  • The tax-free allowance is increased.
  • Tax-free inheritance of pensions gets a reprieve.
  • The tax rates on unwrapped investments are increased.
  • I am beset by riches from a burgeoning new career at Monevator and rocket up through the tax bands. [Um, take the lump sum if this is your concern – Ed]

Conversely, some things could change that would make me feel extra warm inside because I already have my lump sum tucked away in a GIA:

  • The tax-free allowance is reduced or axed.
  • The lifetime allowance is reintroduced.
  • Pension income is subjected to National Insurance or the equivalent in extra tax.

Our soaring national debt makes it hard to imagine that pension rules will get more generous. So on balance, the second set of risks seem more likely to materialise than the first.

That’s not to say that any of these will happen this November. It’s unlikely that the government would suddenly introduce a cliff edge cut to the tax-free allowance, say.

But neither do I think the issue will go away. Somehow, sometime, by a government of one colour or another, I believe it’s probable that pension tax relief will become less generous.

A tax increase on unwrapped assets would be a blow but it’s just as likely that the tax on pension income will be increased. Still, it’s another risk to keep in mind when looking at your relative effective tax rates.

The conclusion

If you think the government is out to get you then you should probably take the lump sum early.

Use it to buy gold bars and guns. To keep in your cabin in the woods.

Otherwise, if you’re still below the Lump Sum Allowance, then you should probably leave the lump sum in the pension, although you shouldn’t lose out if you take the cash and have enough spare ISA and/or tax allowances to accommodate it.

Even if you’re already over the LSA, in my opinion it would probably only make sense to take the lump sum early if:  

  • You have retired or have low earnings and therefore your future tax band is unlikely to be lower than your current one  
  • You have unused ISA or tax allowances and/or you plan to have higher dividend assets or gilts in your portfolio (as these would all enable you to keep your tax rate down)  
  • You don’t expect to die before 75  

This list is not definitive.

You don’t necessarily need all these to be true to make it worthwhile. Conversely, even if they are all true you might sensibly still not want to take the tax-free lump sum now.

You could wait a while and think about it later. The situation probably won’t change drastically in November.

(Probably.)

Decision time for yours truly

Of course it depends on your situation, but the arguments for withdrawal seem to stack up for me. That’s because I’m already at the maximum tax-free lump sum allowance and it makes sense for me to keep this part of my portfolio in gilts.

Even in the absence of any adverse tax changes, if I manage my tax carefully, I should still be up on the deal. And if – or more likely when – the pension tax axe falls then I’m supremely indifferent.

But before I push the Button of No Return, I’ll wait for any comments from you guys.

It’s quite possible the Monevator regulars will point out the flaws in my logic, and I will appear foolish.

Just as the experts in the media forewarned.

We’re certain to get new – even contrary – points raised by sharp Monevator readers in the comments. So even if you’re not a regular commenter, be sure to come back and check them out in a few days.

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