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How to construct your own asset allocation

Deciding upon your asset allocation can be as simple or as complicated as you wish to make it. You might watch a couple of TikTok videos and decide to go all-in on Griftcoin. Or spend the rest of your life drawing Bollinger bands on charts of obscure Japanese small caps.

A much better alternative is to:

  • Learn the basic tenets of strategic asset allocation– that is, what blend of asset classes suits your circumstances and in what proportion?
  • Understand what each of the main asset classes is for – how it behaves, the threats it combats, plus the risks and trade-offs you accept by holding it.
  • Gain exposure via low-cost index trackers that deliver the performance of each asset class as faithfully as possible.
  • Set-and-forget your portfolio, because it’s designed to cope with all investing weathers: rain, shine, inflation, deflation, stagflation, market crashes, and bursting bubbles.

In this post I’ll run you through a simple method to create a robust asset allocation. We’ll consider what questions to ask yourself along the way and some of the rules of thumb you can use to narrow down your answers.

But before that we need to do some spadework.

Asset allocation preparation

The first thing to understand is that there isn’t an optimal asset allocation.

Nobody knows in advance what the best performing assets will be over the next five, ten, or however many years.

That’s why the one consistent piece of advice you will hear is: Diversify.

Plenty of commentators make predictions. Forecasts are catnip for humans after all. Moreover, no one is ever seriously taken to task later for the accuracy of their calls. But it’s still notable that financial prognostications are bedecked with the kind of get-out clauses that would make a fortune-teller cover their face.

Forget the prediction game. It makes fools of us all.

In contrast, adopting a strategic asset allocation positions you for long-term success while offering protection against the many dangers that assail investors.

It’s all pros and cons

The second thing to know is that every asset class has its strengths and weaknesses.

Equities (also called stocks) are violently unpredictable, while nominal government bonds and cash are vulnerable to inflation.

Nothing is inherently ‘safe’.

However the mainstream assets we cover in this article can all play a role in a diversified portfolio.

Your task is to decide which mix is most likely to serve your personal goals.

Who’s portfolio is it, anyway?

Finally, it’s worth thinking hard about your particular objectives and risk profile.

Loud and influential figures on the Internet will speak of the astounding opportunities in Strategy X and the obvious inefficiencies of Strategy Y. But these confident voices rarely consider your age, financial situation, knowledge level, time constraints, or your baseline interest in the markets.

What’s sauce for them may be poison for you.

Compare a 60-something multi-millionaire retiree to a 20-something who’s scraping together £50 for their first ISA investment. These two are almost certainly not playing the same game nor speaking the same investment language.

So be careful who you listen to. Ask where they’re coming from.

Asset class action

To better understand which asset classes deserve a starring role in your portfolio it’s worth sketching out your plan in broad outline.

Think about:

  • Investment goals – what’s the money for? Financial independence at 50? Retirement at 65? The rainiest of rainy days?
  • In how many years will you need it?
  • How much can you invest towards your goal?

An investment calculator can help you work out if your numbers add up.

The physics of investing mean that:

The amount you save…

Multiplied by your average investment return

Over the years you invest…

Determines your future wealth.

If that amount falls short of your target number then you can decide to save more. Or invest for longer. Or to try to live on less.

By way of returns

Note though that your average investment return lies largely outside of your hands – which is something that many people find hard to accept.

Your portfolio’s expected return can stand in for your actual investment return when you first boot up your plan.

But your actual number achieved depends on unknowable future investment results.

You might attempt to nudge up the returns you achieve by increasing your allocation to a high-growth asset like equities.

But this is a risky move. Banking too much on such a volatile asset also increases the chance you’ll undershoot your target if stocks fail to deliver according to your timetable.

Fate is fickle.

Getting going

Alright, that’s enough planning background for now.

Don’t worry if your numbers are a little hazy. Think of investing as like piloting an old sailing ship in the days before GPS.

You just need a rough idea of where the land lies to begin with. You can always make further course corrections along the way.

Keeping it simple

The minimalist’s approach to portfolio diversification splits your money between equities and government bonds.

These two assets are a time-tested and complementary combo.

Equities are powerful like a rocket engine. When firing beautifully, they can shoot your wealth into the stratosphere. But this engine is prone to stalling. Occasionally equities will send your portfolio into a gut-wrenching free fall.

That’s why it’s wise to invest in government bonds, too. Firstly as an alternative (but lesser) source of thrust. Secondly because bonds often work when equities fail. This ‘flight-to-quality’ effect means bonds can cushion your portfolio during a stock market crash.

Equities are your rocket fuel and bonds will break your fall

Historically, equities have outperformed all other mainstream asset classes – on average, if you can wait long enough for the market to come good.

And this tempts some people to go for glory with 100% stock portfolios.

But sometimes equities do suffer long losing streaks. You could spend a decade or more going nowhere.

That’s fine if you patiently keep buying shares on the cheap. History tells us they will rise again.

But problems rear when you can’t wait – because you’re a forced seller, or because you’re impatient, or because you panic when stocks bomb.

It’s easy to be swayed by the high average returns of equities. But you will rarely experience the average return.

Equities can be dreadful for years. Or they can be amazing for years, then suffer a terrible rout that wipes out all your progress.

Most likely, you’ll endure a wild ride that periodically flips from good to downright scary.

You probably shouldn’t give it 100%

These psychological switch backs are why people are generally ill-advised to go 100% equities.

Traditionally, such a high level of risk is more readily borne by:

  • Beings with an emotional temperature near Absolute Zero.
  • Someone who isn’t relying on the money.
  • Investors who can easily repair the damage – typically because they are young and so have committed a negligible amount of their lifetime savings to the market so far.

In reality, few of us can happily stomach watching our wealth drop 50% to 90%. Many people don’t realise how awful it feels until it’s too late.

Hence, the trickiest part of asset allocation is understanding how much equity risk you can personally take.

Your place on the risk tolerance spectrum is impossible to know with any confidence until you’ve received your first shoeing in the market.

The finance industry uses risk profiling tests in an attempt to understand how you might react before then.

But we’ll offer an even cruder approach below.

Choosing your equities

Despite all the risks, most people must invest some of their portfolio in equities. That’s because their goals require a long-term rate of growth that they’re unlikely to get from bonds, cash, or the other asset classes.

Stocks’ inherent riskiness can be somewhat tempered by investing in the broadest pools of shares possible.

Spreading your money this way enables you to avoid taking concentrated bets on individual companies, industries, or regions that could hit the skids.

Global tracker funds enable passive investors to diversify away such idiosyncratic risks at a stroke. Moreover they enable you to invest in every important stock market in the world at the tap of a button for minimal cost.

Critically, the allocations of global index trackers are driven by the aggregate buy and sell decisions of every investor operating in these markets.

You’re harnessing the wisdom of the crowd when you invest this way.

Bring on the bonds

The point of bonds is to dilute the riskiness of equities. Hence we usually want to pair our shares with the least volatile bonds around:

  • High-quality government bonds – ideally nominal short to intermediate durations, and/or short duration index-linked.
  • From your home country – so UK governments bonds (also called ‘gilts’) for UK investors. Or else global government bonds hedged to GBP.

What percentage of your portfolio should be devoted to bonds? Again, there’s no ‘correct’ answer. It depends on your personality, goals, and financial situation.

However we can throw a rope around your number using some general principles and rules of thumb.

Remember, we’re only investing in equities because we need the growth they offer over the long term. Whereas if you happen to own an orchard of money trees and wade through fallen bank notes like autumnal leaves then you won’t have to bother with all that nasty bear market business.

In such a scenario where you don’t need much growth – say just 0.5% to 1% real return per year over the next ten years – you can hugely reduce your reliance on equities.

In other words, if you’re more interested in capital preservation, then a bigger allocation to shorter-dated conventional government bonds and index-linked gilts makes sense.

Associated rule of thumb: 120 minus your age = your allocation to equities.

In particular if you need the money soon then equities are a big risk.

And by ‘soon’ I mean anytime in the next ten years.

Rushing roulette

Equities have a one-in-four chance of returning a loss inside any five-year period and a one-in-six chance of handing you a loss within a given ten years, according to Tim Hale in his superb book Smarter Investing.

So do not allocate anything like 100% to equities if you will need all of your money within that period.

Associated rule of thumb: Own 4% in equities for each year you’ll be investing. Put the rest of the portfolio in bonds.

If your target is flexible, or you can delay your plans, or the stock market money is a bonus in the big scheme of things for you, then you can increase the risk you take accordingly.

For example, if your retirement living expenses are amply covered by income streams such as a workplace pension and the State Pension then you could up your equity allocation in your ISAs, say.

If equities plunge in value then no matter. You can ride out the dip and enjoy the upside whenever a recovery comes.

That said, your risk tolerance is the house that rules all.

Risky business

The nightmare scenario with any asset allocation is that it’s too risky for you.

If you panic and sell when markets plunge you’ll lock in losses and permanently curtail your future returns.

Even young investors can be psychologically scarred by early losses that put them off investing for life.

But how do you know your risk tolerance until you’ve experienced a serious setback?

One solution for new investors is to dip only a cautious toe into the market to start with. For example, you could opt for a 50:50 equity-bond split until you’re tested by your first market crash.

Associated rule of thumb: Think about how much loss you could take. 50%? 25%? 10%? Write down the current value of your investments. Cross that figure out and replace with the amount it would be worth after enduring your loss.

Could you live with that if it took ten years to recover your original position? Limit your equity allocation to twice the percentage amount you can stand to lose.

William Bernstein, in his wonderful book The Investor’s Manifesto, provides handy instruction on how your personal risk tolerance might modify a rule of thumb such as ‘your age in bonds’:

Risk tolerance Adjustment to equities allocation Reaction to last market crash
Very high +20% Bought and hoped for further declines
High +10% Bought
Moderate 0% Held steady
Low -10% Sold
Very low -20% Sold

Bear in mind that your risk tolerance is a moving target. It’s known to weaken with age and as the amount at stake rises. Therefore even a seasoned investor should reassess their allocation from time to time and consider lifestyling to a lower equity allocation as they age.

Finally, remember that the rules of thumb aren’t scientifically calibrated. They’re quick and dirty shortcuts based upon the practical wisdom gathered by previous generations of financial practitioners and investors.

Hopefully they can guide you to the right destination at a relatively safe speed. But sadly there are no guarantees.

Here’s a final rule of thumb: a 60:40 equities and bonds split. This has become the industry standard for the ‘don’t know’ or ‘Joe Average’ investor.

Press play to continue

Once you’ve thought through your equity/bond division, you’ve made the asset allocation decision that will have the biggest impact upon your ultimate returns from investing.

The hard work is potentially over. If you like, you can now draw a line under the process and even outsource the fine details to one-stop, fund-of-funds like Vanguard’s LifeStrategy series

Keen to go further? Then you can carry on tweaking your asset allocation in search of further diversification.

Inflation defence

Equities, government bonds, and cash will take you a long way. But they do leave a chink in your armour.

All three assets typically flounder during long and hairy surges in inflation.

This doesn’t matter so much for young investors, who can rely on positive long-term growth rates from their shares to outstrip inflation eventually.

But retirees living off their portfolio should think about incorporating an inflation-resistant asset that they can sell as needed if consumer prices spiral.

Short-term, index-linked, government bond funds are likely to perform better than other bond funds in these circumstances. However, rapid interest rate rises proved an Achilles heel for these assets post-Covid.

Individual index-linked gilts (affectionately known as ‘linkers’) are a better match for fast-rising prices.

Linkers seem complicated at first, but mostly that’s because they’re unfamiliar rather than intrinsically complex.

If you’re an older investor who’s prepared to devote some time to learning about them then I think index-linked gilts are worth the effort.

Commodities also thrive during at least some inflationary episodes. And they can be bought off the shelf using diversified commodity ETFs.

Commodities also require a slog up a learning curve. You especially need to consider how extremely volatile commodities can be.

Still, the asset class’s long-term returns look reasonable – sitting between equities and bonds. We’ve put a 10% slug of commodities into our model retirement portfolio.

Gold is the final mainstream asset that periodically performs well against high inflation.

The yellow metal isn’t specifically designed to counter inflation like index-linked gilts are. Nor does gold have a reassuringly long track record of outstripping inflation like commodities.

But gold has worked during two of the last three price shocks.

Although gold’s recent performance makes it look like a no-brainer, the story is more nuanced over longer periods. Do make sure you understand the pros and cons of gold before making an allocation.

Further asset allocation ideas

There are plenty of other asset classes you could consider. We can debate them in the comments.

But the selection above covers the crucial assets. By themselves, they are enough to hit your goals and muster a porcupine defence against any of the major economic threats you’re likely to face.

One thing I haven’t mentioned is that many people have substituted money market funds for bonds since the latter crashed in 2022.

However, there are four reasons not to do this:

  1. The long-term returns of nominal government bonds are significantly higher than money market funds.
  2. Nominal government bonds are more likely to reduce stock market losses during a crash.
  3. Similarly, nominal govies are the place to be if deflation sets in.
  4. Lastly, government bonds are far better priced now than they were in 2022.

Reasons two and three also explain why you’d hold a nominal government bond allocation that’s separate from a slug of index-linked bonds.

How much?

Know that it’s absolutely fine to carve out your allocations in big 5-10% blocks. The odd fiddly percentage point here and there will make little difference to your final score.

Most people should avoid adding so many sub-asset classes that you end up with a raft of sub-5% allocations.

These add unnecessary complexity for negligible gain.

Model behaviour

Okay, I know that’s a lot to take in. No wonder many investors turn to model portfolios to help firm up their ideas.

Some ready-to-share asset allocations we’ve written up include:

However you go, you’ll find there’s a good range of low-cost index trackers to cover almost all the asset classes you might include in your portfolio.

Take it steady,

The Accumulator

Note: we updated a decade-old article on asset allocation to create this post, so early comments below may refer to this previous incarnation. We like to keep our old discussions for posterity, but please do check the dates with anything time sensitive.

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Weekend reading: One more time

Our Weekend Reading logo

What caught my eye this week.

When I first began writing about investing on Monevator in 2007, I wondered when I’d run out of things to say.

The basics of good personal finance can famously be written on a Post It note.

At the same time, index funds were already mopping up retail investors’ money like baleen whales feasting at an all-you-can-eat plankton buffet.

As for the economy, the UK chancellor Gordon Brown boasted he’d put an end to boom and bust.

What would there be left to talk about?

Of course the Great Financial Crisis soon kicked such complacency into touch.

And shortly afterwards The Accumulator started writing for Monevator. His beady forensic eye for the hidden costs and frictions to avoid in passive investing – and his awareness of the psychological landmines that abound – proved this blog could be a writing project to take us into old age, if you guys will keep having us…

(AI notwithstanding!)

Harder, better, faster, stronger

What I didn’t see coming in 2007 though was that the mechanics and tools of private investing would continue to evolve…

…or devolve, depending on your perspective.

We already had index funds, ETFs, cheap share trading for those who wanted it – though not zero commissions yet – and innovations like all-in-one and target-date funds that wrapped best investing practice into products that enabled you to buy good investing habits off the shelf.

There was still a wealth of venerable investment trusts for old nostalgics like me to kick the tyres on should we want to do something different, too.

Were we crying out for free share trading, levered and short ETFs, and Bitcoin?

Probably not, but they came our way anyway – and there’s no end in sight.

In just the past few weeks I’ve been reading about:

  • Mirror notes from the investing platform Republic (formerly Seedrs) to enable UK investors to get exposure to the performance of unlisted SpaceX.
  • The new stablecoin legislation in the US. Boosters say it lays the groundwork for moving the financial rails wholesale onto the blockchain.
  • RobinHood’s tokenised stocks – now available in Europe – which combine both these ideas to purportedly enable you to bet on the future of OpenAI, say, again via the blockchain.
  • The UK’s FCA relenting to allow everyday investors to buy exchange-traded notes tracking Bitcoin and potentially other crypto assets from 8 October.

Is such innovation a good thing?

Well… perhaps more than seems likely right now.

Get lucky

Paul Volcker, the inflation-beating chairman of the Federal Reserve, notoriously remarked that the ATM was the only useful financial innovation of the past 30 years – at least as of the time of his quipping.

But even as he spoke, the seeds were being laid for the very welcome private investing revolution that I outlined at the start of this piece.

So maybe we should be humble about where these latest developments might lead?

It’s easy to be cynical about whether the average person has any need to buy crypto-based exposure to Elon’s rocket ships.

But perhaps we will all be doing something similar a couple of decades hence – and maybe not even realising it?

On the other hand, I have some sympathy with Bill McBride, who won a bit of renown in the blogosphere nearly 20 years ago by predicting the financial crisis.

And his view of these latest innovations is sobering:

The key to preventing a financial crisis is to keep the non-regulated (or poorly regulated) areas of finance out of the financial system.

A good example is the Tulip Bubble in the 1600s. Some people got rich, others were wiped out, but it had no impact on the financial system.

Unfortunately the current administration has embraced crypto. They are allowing it to creep into the financial system, and allowing 401K plans to hold crypto (aka future bagholders).

There has been some discussion of allowing financial institutions to lend against crypto holdings – like for a mortgage.

This is mistake and increases the possibility that crypto will be the source of the next financial crisis.

Time will tell. But hopefully we’ll be here to report on the unfolding drama again should the worst happen…

Please share your thoughts in the comments below, and have a great weekend.

[continue reading…]

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The Wealth Ladder

Cover image of The Wealth Ladder book: UK edition

Having published Just Keep Buying to rave reviews – not least our own – bestselling author Nick Maggiulli is back with The Wealth Ladder (alternative link to the US edition). Here Nick explains why he believes his Wealth Ladder concept is the ideal framework for tracking and improving your financial life.

When I was five years old my father taught me how to play chess. For fun, he’d invite his friends over and have them challenge me to a game. They were always shocked when I won.

Picture it. You’re 27 years old and a kindergartner just crushed your self-esteem with a single word – checkmate.

Jokes aside, I wasn’t a future chess prodigy. My father’s friends were simply terrible at the game.

I stopped playing chess a few years later when my parents split up and didn’t pick it up again until my junior year of high school. I found a renewed interest in the game after playing against a friend, and we decided to start a chess club. To improve my skills, I spent hours studying openings and the best ways to respond to them. My first five to ten moves in a game were often automatic, pulled from memory. My strategy worked and I got better.

But it wasn’t until I entered my first real chess competition that I learned an unforgettable lesson.

When amateurs learn chess, many of them do the same things I did. They memorize openings and hope that their opponent makes a mistake along the way. They win based on good initial positioning and by avoiding simple blunders.

But Victor, one of the star players at my first chess competition, was different. He didn’t play chess like an amateur. Sometimes Victor would start a game with a traditional opening and sometimes he wouldn’t. He’d accept a gambit (the sacrifice of a piece) with one opponent, but completely ignore it with another.

It was like he wasn’t playing the same game as the rest of us.

Here’s the puzzling part though – no matter how much I watched him play, I couldn’t figure out how he did it. I had no frame of reference for his decision making. You’d think that if I kept practicing, I’d eventually be able to compete with Victor, but you’d be wrong. I could not simply take my approach of going through chess openings, do it for hundreds of additional hours, and get to his skill level. My strategy plus time did not equal Victor.

No, what I really needed was to find a different way to play chess altogether.

This is the lesson Victor taught me: Sometimes effort alone doesn’t determine your results. How and where you apply that effort does.

Years later, I realised that the same thing is true when it comes to building wealth.

Thinking different

Having the wrong framework when trying to get ahead financially can leave you spinning your wheels with little to show for it.

Many people try to fix this by working more hours or following the latest financial advice, but they still don’t see a big change. Then they attribute their lack of success to their work ethic, their boss, or bad luck, when their problem has been their approach all along. They’re trying to memorize openings while the Victors of the world pass them by.

As Andy Grove, the former CEO of Intel, once said, “There are so many people working so hard and achieving so little.”

Their problem isn’t effort – it’s strategy.

But what if there was a better way? What if there was a new framework for understanding how to build wealth, one that actually worked? Not a get-rich-quick scheme or a one-size-fits-all solution to your money problems, but a new philosophy for thinking about money altogether. What if this system didn’t tell you what to do, but taught you how to think about your finances?

Telling people what to do works fine when they face the same problem again and again. But, this approach doesn’t work with money and wealth, where things are constantly in flux. Interest rates change, our careers change, and our desires change, so why should our strategy for building wealth stay the same?

It shouldn’t. Instead, a better approach would be to have a solid framework to rely upon throughout our long and varied lives.

That framework is what I call the Wealth Ladder.

Introducing the Wealth Ladder

If I gave you $100, would that change your life?

How about $100,000? What about $100 million?

Your answer will depend upon a variety of factors, but most importantly, how much money you have today. For most people, $100 million would fundamentally transform their lifestyle. But for someone like Jeff Bezos, $100 million wouldn’t even register. This simple observation has profound implications for understanding wealth, and how our view of it can change as we acquire more of it.

For the record, when I say ‘wealth’ I am referring to your net worth, or your assets minus your liabilities. That is everything you own (i.e., property, financial assets, cash, etc.) minus everything that you owe to others (i.e., mortgage, student loans, credit card debt, etc.).

The problem is, we’ve been looking at wealth in the wrong way. We’ve assumed that more wealth is better and that it can solve all our problems. We’ve also assumed that more wealth means more personal consumption.

Unfortunately, this is only true in the extremes.

The person with $100,000 can afford a lifestyle that is quite different from the person with only $1,000. However, the person with $500,000 lives nearly identically to the person with $400,000. Though these two people are separated by $100,000, they likely shop at similar stores, drive similar cars, and live in similar homes. In this sense, our enjoyment of wealth isn’t something that goes up with every additional dollar (or $1,000) we get, but something that increases in steps.

From this perspective, wealth isn’t a straight line, it’s a ladder. And each rung of this ladder corresponds with a wealth level that will impact nearly every facet of your financial life.

From how you spend money, to how you earn it and how you invest it, each level of the Wealth Ladder is unique.

What are these wealth levels?

  • Level 1 (<$10,000)
  • Level 2 ($10,000–$ 100,000)
  • Level 3 ($100,000–$ 1 million)
  • Level 4 ($1 million– $ 10 million)
  • Level 5 ($10 million– $ 100 million)
  • Level 6 ($100 million+)

The levels are separated by a factor of 10, because this corresponds with the increase in wealth needed to create a large lifestyle change.

Wealth around the world

You can see these wealth levels with their respective net worth ranges in the chart below.

For example, Level 1 is for those with a net worth less than $10,000, Level 2 is for those with a net worth of $10,000 to $100,000, and so on.

From this we can infer that each level up the Wealth Ladder is exponentially more difficult to reach than the one before it. This explains why the number of people around the world in each level tends to get smaller as we go further up the ladder.

For example, the following chart is a breakdown of the percentage of people in each wealth level around the world and in the United States as of 2023:

As you can see, the majority of people around the world fall in Levels 1-2, with increasingly smaller groups of people in each level above that.

There are roughly 1.5 billion adults in Level 1 (<$10k), but there are only about thirty thousand adults in Level 6 ($100M+). Given the amount of wealth concentrated in the United States, the distribution of people across the Wealth Ladder is shifted upward here. As a result, most households in the U.S. are in Level 3 ($100k-$1M), not Levels 1-2. Despite this upward shift, there are still far more households lower on the Wealth Ladder than higher. For example, there are 56 million U.S. households in Level 3, but only about 10,000 U.S. households in Level 6.

Since such immense fortunes are rare, some people have warped perceptions of wealth and what it means to do well financially.

If we map the different economic classes in the U.S. onto the Wealth Ladder, we can see this more clearly:

  • Level 1. Lower class (<$10k)
  • Level 2. Working class ($10k–$ 100k)
  • Level 3. Middle class ($100k–$ 1M)
  • Level 4. Upper middle class ($1M–$ 10M)
  • Level 5. Upper class ($10M–$ 100M)
  • Level 6. The superrich ($100M+)

From this perspective, you can begin to understand why some people with lots of money don’t feel rich – it’s because they’re looking at higher economic classes or Wealth Levels. People in Level 4 look at people in Levels 5-6 and say, “I’m not rich, they are rich.” Though people in Level 4 are millionaires, they can’t afford to live like the stereotypical rich person depicted in the media and popular culture. Those people, who are in Levels 5-6, can actually afford to fly in private jets and own supercars.

From this simple categorization of wealth into levels, we can also imagine how your financial strategy might change as you move up the Wealth Ladder

For example, the strategy to get you from Level 1 to Level 2 will be fundamentally different from the strategy to get you from Level 5 to Level 6.

How to climb the ladder

This categorisation of wealth into levels also explains why different financial experts give seemingly contradictory advice.

One may argue that budgeting is the key to financial success, while another claims that starting a business is more important. Who is right?

The Wealth Ladder teaches us that both of them are, they are just talking to people at different levels on the Wealth Ladder.

While budgeting can be useful for someone in Level 1 of the Wealth Ladder, it likely won’t make a difference for someone in Level 6. This would classify budgeting as Level 1 strategy. Similarly, starting and scaling a business could help someone in Level 6 build more wealth, but probably isn’t the right strategy for someone in Level 1. This would classify running a business as a higher- level strategy.

Just like a fitness coach would provide different diet and exercise advice to an obese person than to a well-trained athlete, the Wealth Ladder will provide different financial advice based on where you are on your financial journey.

In this way, the Wealth Ladder is a grand unifying framework that will fundamentally change how you think about wealth and how to build it.

Once you’ve grasped the concept of the Wealth Ladder, it will be difficult to look at your finances the same way again. As the saying goes, “Once you see it, you can’t unsee it.” Your shift in thinking will influence how you choose a career, how you take risks, and, ultimately, how you live your life. You’ll see that the difference between those who build wealth and those who don’t isn’t necessarily how hard they work. Rather, it’s what strategies they follow and where they focus their time and energy.

Thankfully, you won’t need to guess about where to focus yours. The Wealth Ladder already has the answer.

The Wealth Ladder works

Before we start climbing The Wealth Ladder, let me tell you a little bit about my story.

I grew up in a working-class family in Southern California. My mom was a loan processor. My dad bounced between jobs – limo driver, insurance agent, and more. They divorced when I was young and declared bankruptcy multiple times before I turned eighteen.

This unfortunate set of circumstances meant I had no financial role models. No road map. I had to figure out money on my own. I became the first in my family to graduate from college – and not just any college. I went to Stanford, an elite private school where I met people from different walks of life, many wildly different from my own.

From there, I started my career in litigation consulting, working alongside high-powered professionals across the business world. For a few years, I even played in a band with a handful of lawyers.

Now, I work at Ritholtz Wealth Management, a firm that manages more than $5 billion in assets for thousands of clients. I’m also a financial writer and author of the bestselling book Just Keep Buying.

Because of these experiences, I’ve seen wealth from every angle. I’ve met people at every level of The Wealth Ladder. I’ve also analyzed an enormous amount of financial data – everything from the Survey of Consumer Finances (run by the Federal Reserve) to the University of Michigan’s Panel Study of Income Dynamics, and more. These datasets contain financial information on tens of thousands of US households over the span of five decades.

The Wealth Ladder distills what I’ve learned from this research along with my own journey with money.

Time to step up

Most importantly, I’ve built life-changing wealth – for myself, my family, and for thousands of people around the world – because of it.

The Wealth Ladder is the framework I’ve developed to help you do the same. And while I’m not at the highest wealth level, I know many who are. Some are my mentors. Some were colleagues. Some I’ve met online. I’ve seen the benefits of great wealth – but also its pitfalls.

My book is both a guide and a warning. It’s about how to build wealth – and knowing when enough is enough.

My goal? To help you climb The Wealth Ladder in a way that actually improves your life.

The only question left is: Are you ready to climb it?

Obviously the first step on this ladder is to grab your own copy of Nick’s book – which is available in UK as well as US editions. On that score, I’m curious… how do you think Nick’s Wealth Ladder levels map to the UK? Are our rungs closer together? Share your thoughts below. You could also let us know where you’ve reached – and whether you’re done climbing!

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Sticking to a financial plan when the honeymoon is over [Members]

You know how it is. You set yourself a big hairy goal such as paying off the mortgage or achieving financial independence (FI). And initially you’re bursting with enthusiasm.

It’s all systems go: “Project GetMyLifeBack you are cleared for launch.”

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